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The Hidden Fragrances of Leonardo da Vinci

The Hidden Fragrances of Leonardo da Vinci


### Leonardo da Vinci and the Fragrance of the Renaissance: A Journey Through Smell, Science, and Art

Leonardo da Vinci’s name conjures images of enigmatic masterpieces like *Mona Lisa* or *The Last Supper*, groundbreaking scientific sketches, and architectural ingenuity. But beyond his much-celebrated contributions to art and science, a lesser-known thread weaves through his life: his deep fascination with the world of scents. The recently published catalog, *Leonardo da Vinci and the Perfumes of the Renaissance*, delves into this aromatic exploration, offering a fresh lens on the Renaissance polymath’s multidisciplinary genius.

### A Whiff of Renaissance Tuscany

Leonardo’s childhood in Tuscany played a crucial role in nurturing his appreciation for fragrance. Growing up amidst the rolling hills, he was surrounded by aromatic flora such as jasmine, orange blossoms, and wild herbs—scents that would linger in his creativity. Tuscany’s verdant landscape, with its rich olfactory palette, became a natural foundation for his later explorations into the relationship between smell, color, and nature.

The catalog, derived from a multisensory exhibition curated by historians Carlo Vecce and Pascal Brioist at the Château du Clos Lucé in France, reconstructs this fragrant past. It pulls together paintings, written recipes, and three-dimensional installations to explore how Renaissance perfumes influenced, and were influenced by, Leonardo’s work. In doing so, the book blends art history with the historical study of sensory experiences, bridging the gap between Leonardo’s genius and our own senses.

### A Polymath’s Sensory Laboratory

Leonardo’s notebooks reveal a mind captivated by the interconnectedness of the senses. His fascination with perfumes extended beyond mere indulgence; it became an intellectual exercise. His careful transcription of fragrance recipes and his engineering sketches for alembic distillation devices—used for the extraction of essential oils—showcase his scientific approach to scents.

In his own words, Leonardo noted how perfumes capture both color and scent: *“Note how aqua vitae collects in itself all the colors and scents of the flowers. If you want to make azure, put cornflowers into it; and wild poppies for red.”* This insight bridged the realms of fine art and alchemy, as he experimented with distillation to understand how sensory elements could complement one another.

The book also highlights how these experiments extended beyond the lab, informing his techniques in painting. Leonardo’s mastery of layering and blending pigments has been partially attributed to his keen awareness of fine gradations between sensory experiences.

### Designing a Better-Smelling World

Renaissance Europe was rife with unpleasant odors, borne of unsanitary living conditions and overcrowding. Perfumes, therefore, became both a fashion statement and a practical tool to mask these smells. Leonardo took this reality as a technological challenge, combining beauty and utility.

In 1485, he designed a model city that foreshadowed modern urban planning. Leonardo’s city eliminated sources of putrid odors through strategic ventilation and waste management. His architectural designs also included scented gardens for aristocratic patrons and stables with improved airflow to combat the stink of horse dung. Fragrance, for Leonardo, was not only aesthetic but an essential ingredient of functional and harmonious living.

### Perfumed Fashion of the Renaissance Nobility

The Renaissance saw a rise in the use of scented objects, from pomanders (small perfume containers) to gloves treated with oils and rose water. These practices were especially favored by the Milanese and French nobility during Leonardo’s lifetime. His famous painting *Lady with an Ermine* (1489–1491) offers a visual nod to this trend, depicting its subject adorned with a black necklace believed to represent perfumed paternoster beads. These beads often incorporated aromatic mixtures of bread crumbs, spices, and oils.

For enthusiasts with a curious nose, the catalog provides detailed Renaissance-style recipes to recreate these perfumed objects, from knife handles to sculptures known as *chypre birdies*. While charming, modern readers may want to exercise caution—the Renaissance lacked the hygiene standards and preservatives we rely on today!

### Scents’ Role in Leonardo’s Art and Inventions

Leonardo’s interest in fragrance was not isolated but permeated his other pursuits. His exploration of smells paralleled his obsession with capturing the subtleties of light and shadow in his paintings. Similarly, just as he sought to perfect the depiction of human anatomy through dissection, he sought to distill the essence of flowers, spices, and herbs in his pursuit of sensory mastery.

The intersection of smell and science extended even to his engineering designs. His plans for “ideal cities” proposed solutions to eliminate foul air, making Renaissance cities healthier and more pleasant to inhabit. These projects underscored the importance he placed on the sensory experience of living spaces.

### Perfume in the Context of Renaissance Hygiene

It’s worth noting that the Renaissance was a period of questionable hygiene practices. Perfumes served a dual