Exploring the Intricacies and Creativity of Nail Art in “Fresh Sets”
Title: Fresh Sets and Fine Art: How Nail Design Has Evolved into a Global Visual Movement
Once relegated to beauty salons and considered a frivolous indulgence, nail art has evolved into a powerful form of personal expression and an increasingly recognized medium in the world of fine art and design. This transformation is documented and celebrated in Tembe Denton-Hurst’s upcoming book, Fresh Sets: Contemporary Nail Art from Around the World (2025), a vibrant photo collection spotlighting how nail design has become a global artistic language.
The Metamorphosis of Nail Art: From Function to Form
The roots of nail art reach back centuries, but its current iteration as both a cultural and artistic form has accelerated dramatically in the past few decades. In the United States, waves of Vietnamese immigration in the 1970s had a major impact on the salon industry, fueling a rapid expansion of accessible nail services. Additionally, customized manicures have long held cultural significance within Black and Latinx communities, where bold, sculptural nail styles have expressed pride, identity, and status.
Nail art’s journey from practical grooming to avant-garde body art reflects broader cultural shifts. Denton-Hurst’s book traces this arc—bringing visibility to a movement that bridges salons, catwalks, cultural history, and contemporary aesthetics.
Introducing Fresh Sets: A Global Snapshot of Fine Art Fingertips
Fresh Sets is not just another glossy coffee table book. Featuring the work and stories of 35 nail artists from across continents—including Japan, Korea, India, Mexico, the United States, and Europe—it is an archival treasure that affirms nail design as an evolving visual culture.
The curated works in the book range from miniature masterpieces of surrealism to sculptural experiments that defy gravity. Artists like Juan Alvear and Naomi Yasuda challenge conventional materials and anatomical constraints, while Margarita Tsibizova from Moscow dives into the neo-grotesque with her “dirtycore” nail extensions.
“Nail art is no longer just about polish or clean edges—it’s about pushing conceptual boundaries,” says Denton-Hurst. Some of the featured designs resemble wearable sculpture, tech-inflected artifacts, or even microcosmic narratives on a digit-sized canvas.
The Pandemic Pivot: Nail Artists Making Meaning during Crisis
The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated the medium’s evolution in unexpected ways. With salon closures and a societal focus on at-home self-care, many creatives—including Denton-Hurst herself—turned to nail design as both a therapeutic practice and a new frontier for artistic exploration. Trained artists, designers, and those from fashion and architecture backgrounds dove into nail artistry, using it as a tactile, intimate form of creation during lockdown.
“Nail design became a way of reclaiming control and expressing style when the world felt uncertain,” says Denton-Hurst. For some, it was a lifeline; for others, a launchpad into a new creative career.
Technology and Material Innovation
New developments in nail materials and techniques have extended the creative possibilities of the medium. The 2017 launch of Aprés Gel-X, a soft gel nail extension system, marked a turning point for nail artists, offering a durable, lightweight base ideal for elaborate experimentation.
Artists now regularly incorporate 3D elements, such as resin sculptures, embedded crystals, digital prints, and even 3D-printed structures, into their designs. Designers like Tomoya Nakagawa use CAD (computer-aided design) tools to pioneer digital nail fabrication across Tokyo, Seoul, and New York.
Meanwhile, nail designers like Dani Hernandez draw inspiration from nature, medical microbiology, or jewelry, creating detailed, maximalist looks that feel simultaneously organic and otherworldly.
Breaking the Bias: Reclaiming Nail Art’s Validity as High Culture
Nail art has long been subject to classist, racist, and sexist stereotypes—dismissed as unprofessional, gaudy, or excessive. Denton-Hurst challenges these notions, framing manicures as a wearable extension of identity, history, and heritage.
“People are finally seeing it as more than just decoration,” she explains. “The hand—and the nail—are surfaces for expression that deserve the same reverence we give to canvas or fabric.”
This declaration feels especially urgent as salons continue to battle for visibility and respect, with many nail artists still marginalized despite their technical skill and artistic vision. By elevating nail art through the lens of fine art and fashion, projects like Fresh Sets advocate for greater inclusion in galleries, design shows, and public institutions.
The Artists Behind the Brush
Fresh Sets introduces readers to a brilliantly diverse array of voices. Ukrainian artist Violetta Kurilenko charms with her “Nail Restaurant” series—clients place “orders” and receive playful, food-themed sets. Nikki Panic, a self-taught London-based designer, builds bold, punk-inspired patterns, while Buff Bar’s Nathan Taylor crafts abstract geometry echoing Bauhaus design. Tahvya Krok (a.k